Welt shoe



June 4, 1940.

H. D. WEBB WELT SHOE Filed Feb. 25, 1956 2 he ts-Sheet 1 June 4, 1940. H. D. WEBB 02,9

' WELT SHOE Filed Feb. 25, 1956 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 M v r A fill Patented June 4, 1940 UNITED STATES WELT SHOE Horace D. Webb, Rochester, N. Y., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application February 25, 1936, Serial No. 65,633

Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in welt shoes.

One object of the invention is to provide a welt shoe which not only embodies the principal advantageous features of the usual welt construction but is substantially more flexible in its forepart than the usual welt shoe and is substantially less expensive to manufacture.

Another object of the invention is to render unnecessary the use of plastic or other types of filling material between the inner and. outer soles in the forepart of the shoe.

To the attainment of these objects, the invention consists in the improvements in shoes hereinafter described and claimed.

The invention will be explained with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a laminated sole blank prepared in accordance with my improved method;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the blank as it appears after it has been rounded;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary cross-sectional View illustrating the operation upon the sole blank of a matrix roll splitting machine which is employedfor dividing the blank into an insole and an outsole having complemental forepart portions;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view in longitudinal section of the matrix rolls of the splitting machine illustrating the operation of the rolls upon the forepart of the sole blank;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view of the sole blank as it appears immediately after it has been operated upon by the matrix rolls and the material of the blank has reacted from the deforming pressure of the rolls;

Fig. 6 is a longitudinal sectional view of the insole produced by the splitting operation;

Fig. '7 is a longitudinal sectional view of the outsole;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary sectional view on an enlarged scale of the insole as it appears after the marginal portion of its recessed face has been shouldered and channeled;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view showing the insole assembled with an upper and a welt on a last and illustrating the appearance of the parts after the inseaming operation has been performed;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9 but illustrating a further step in the practice of the method;

Fig. 11 is a detailed view in cross-section of the completed shoe;

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 11 but illustrating a modified construction; and

Figs. 13 and 14 are detailed cross-sectional views of completed shoes illustrating further modifications of construction.

My improved shoe embodies in its construction inner and outer soles having complemental interfitting forward portions and preferably such soles are produced by splitting an insole and an outsole from a single blank of sole stock of a thickness equal to the combined thickness of the required insole and outsole. If such a blank were to be made of solid leather the leather would of course have to be substantially thicker than that ordinarily used for the outsole of a shoe and inasmuch as the thicker grain leathers are unduly expensive I prefer to reduce the cost of manufacture of the shoe by employing a laminated blank made by cementing together a layer of outsole material, for example, grain leather of a thickness equal or substantially equal only to that of the edge of the outsole to be produced, and a layer of insole material, such as flexible split leather or pigskin which is equal or substantially equal in thickness to that of the body portion of the insole to be produced. Such a laminated sole blank is shown. in Fig. 1 of the drawings, the blank comprising a layer of outsole leather and a layer of insole leather 22, the two layers being secured together by means of cement, as indicated at 24.

To adapt the inner and outer soles which are to be made from the laminated blank for use in a welt shoe, it is desirable that the insole shall be slightly smaller than the outsole and in some cases, also, it may be desirable that the insole and the outsole differ somewhat in contour. As illustrated, the desired outlines of both the insole and the outsole may advantageously be determined before the splitting operation takes place by rounding the sole blank by means of a so-called double-knife rounding machine, such for example as that disclosed in a copending application for United States Letters Patent Serial No. 734,650, filed July 11, 1934, in the name of F. E. Bertrand. A rounding machine of this type will operate to produce a sole blank, such as that shown in Fig. 2, one of the knives trimming the blank to the sole shaped contour indicated at 26 and thus determining the contour of the outsole which is subsequently to be produced, while the second knife of themachine cuts through the layer of insole material 22, producing the vertical incision 28 and thus determin ing the outline of the insole.

After the sole blank has been rounded and incised as above described, the blank is submitted to the splitting operation which is to divide it into an insole and an outsole. In order to produce, as a result of the splitting operation, a recess in the central forward portion of the insole which extends only part way through the insole and a complemental projection upon the corresponding portion of the outsole, the splitting operation may advantageously be performed by means of a machine of the general type of that described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,053,304, granted September 8, 1936, upon application of William D. Thomas. As illustrated in Fig. 3, such a machine comprises a single straight-edged splitting knife 39, an adjustable upper matrix roll 32,. and a lower feed roll 34 which is yieldingly mounted so as to press the sole blank toward the upper roll. The matrix roll 32 has formed therein a cavity 36 shaped in outline to correspond to that of the recess to be formed in the forepart of the insole, and the roll 34 has formed thereon a projection 38 complemental to the recess in the roll 3 -1, the cavity 35 and the projection 38 being otherwise so shaped as to deform the sole blank while it is being advanced to the knife as (the cutting edge of which is conventionally indicated at 40 in Fig. 4), so that the blank will be split closer to its incised surface in its central forward portion than in other portions of the blank but will not be cut entirely through the layer of insole material 22. After the blank has been advanced beyond the knife and has had an opportunity to react from the deforming pressure of therolls, it will appear as shown in Fig. 5, the blank having then been divided into an insole M, an outsole 4 .6, and a small Waste rand 48 which is separated from the insole and the outsole by the intersection of the cut made by the splitting knife with the vertical incision 28 made by one of the rounding knives. As a result of the blank having been deformed as indicated in Fig. 4. while being split, there is formed in the central portion of the forepart of the insole produced by the splitting operation a recess 56) (see Fig. 6) which extends only part way through from the outer side of the insole (i. e., the side of the insole which is to face the outsole), while there is formed in the outsole a central forepart projection 5?. (Fig. '7) which is exactly complemcntal to the insole recess 5B. As shown, the recess 50 extends only part way through the insole so that a relatively thick marginal portion 54 extends peripherally of the forepart of the insole and merges at the inner or foot-engaging side of the insole into a thin portion or layer 56 which is integral with the rest of the insole. Thus, while the insole has been recessed in its forepart so as to render that portion more flexible, the entire inner surface of the insole (which is directed toward the foot and which, in the absence of a sock lining, will be exposed to view at the inside of the shoe) will be a smooth finished surface which is continuous from one edge of the insole to the other. While, as herein illustrated, the laminated sole blank is split, except in its central forward portion, along the plane of adhesion between its layers, it should be understood that advantageous results may be obtained by splitting the portion of the blank referred to either somewhat above or somewhat below that plane.

The next step is to channel the marginal portion of the sole at its outer side to prepare it for the formation of a stitch-receiving rib thereon. In order to provide a rib of the type shown in Fig. 11, the insole may be channeled in any suitable manner, for example, by means of a machine such as shown in United States Letters Patent No. 2,015,064, granted September 24, 1935, upon an application filed in the name of F. E. Bertrand, to form an outer marginal shoulder 60 and an inner marginal channel 62.

In using the above-described insole nd outsole in the manufacture of a welt shoe, the recessed and channeled insole is assembled with an upper M on a last 66 and the upper is worked over the last and its margin is secured in lasted position against the shoulder 60 of the insole. Upon the release of the tension exerted upon the upper in the lasting operation the integral central portion 56 of the insole will eifectively prevent the insole from reacting to the pull exerted thereon by the lasted upper thereby rendering it unnecessary to reinforce the insole against such reaction as, for example, by cementing a temporary reinforcing piece thereto. Thereafter awelt 88 is applied and the welt, the upper and the insole are united by inseam stitches 10 which are laid in the channel 62. The inseaming operation leaves the channel 62 in more or less of an open condition and in order to facilitate the laying and attaching of the outsole 46 with its inner surface in close contact with the outer surfaces of the insole and the welt, as well as to insure the maintenance of such a condition throughout the life of the shoe, I prefer at this stage to apply cement l2 (Fig. 9) within the channel and to lay or press down the channel lip i l in any suitable manner, for example, by means of a roll, so that a smooth fiat marginal surface will be centered around the forepart of the insole for the reception of the outsole. It is desirable also to trim the edge of the overlasted upper flush with the adjacent outer surfaces of the insole and the welt.

The shoe is now ready to receive the outsole if the latter is to be attached by means of stitches. As shown in Fig. 11, the outsole is laid with the forepart projection 52 fitting within and substantially filling the recess in the insole and is permanently attached to the shoe by means of outseam stitches 76 which secure it to the welt 68. In laying the outsole it is desirable to apply rubber cement to the bottom of the shoe and preferably the surface of the recessed forward portion of the insole is coated with cement so that after the outsole has been attached a thin film or layer of cement H (Fig. 11) will be interposed between the soles so as to prevent the shoe from squeaking when being worn. The cement will also serve as a means for permanently holding the thin central portion 56 of the forepart of the insole in place so as to prevent wrinkling of the latter without, however, interfering with such slight relative movement between the soles a will take place when the forepart of the shoe is flexed in walking.

It will be noted that while the margin of the iorepart of the insole is of substantial thickness so as to afford a firm anchorage for the inseam stitches, the central portion of the insole is sufficiently thin so that it will not interfere with the desired flexibility at the forepart of the shoe. Thus, although there is actually a thin layer of insole material overlying the outsole in the forepart of the shoe, the presence of this layer will not stiffen the shoe bottom to any appreciable extent because of its thinness and because of the character of the insole material.

For all practical purposes the shoe will be as flexible as if the insole had been skeletonized by the formation of an opening extending entirely through its forepart.

If desired, the outsole may be cement-attached,

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which is allowed to dry and later activated by means of a solvent, after which the outsole is laid and held against the bottom of the shoe under pressure by means of a suitable cement soleattaching press until the cement has become set. It will be noted that the surface of the between substance in a shoulder channeled insole of the type hereinbefore described adds substantially to the area of the bonded surfaces of the insole and outsole so that an exceptionally secure attachment of the outsole is obtained. If desired, a thin layer of fabric or the like Bil may be employed between the central forward portions of the inner and outer soles to insure against squeakmg.

It is not essential to fit the insole with an outer shoulder and an inner channel in order to provide a sewing rib to which to secure the upper and the welt, inasmuch as the insole may be prepared as illustrated in Fig. 13 with inner and outer channels, thereby forming inner and outer lips 82 and 84 as in the usual Goodyear welt construction. Alternatively the insole may be prepared as illustrated in Fig. 14 wherein inner and outer lips, after having been raised and cemented together, are reinforced by a piece of canvas 86 in accordance with the usual custom in making Economy insoles. The canvas reinforcement extending throughout the full width of the insole inside. of the sewing rib functions effectively to prevent squeaking of the shoe.

In the construction shown in Figs. 13 and 14, in order to avoid having a space between the insole and the outsole and to eliminate the necessity of employing a plastic or other filling material within this space, it is desirable to employ a last having the bottom of its iorepart suiiiciently rounded transversely to insure intimate contact between the adjacent surfaces of the inner and outer soles throughout the width of the shoe.

The broader aspects of the above-disclosed construction and method are not claimed herein but are claimed in a pending application Serial No. 755,181, filed November 28, 1934, in the name of Norval B. Griifin, and in a pending application Serial No. 16,361, filed April 15, 1935, in the name of Karl Kilburn.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A shoe comprising an insole of relatively soft and flexible material having in its forepart a central recess extending from its lower side nearly but not quite through the insole and leaving the central portion of the forepart of the insole substantially thinner than the marginal portion of the forepart, said marginal portion having a deep channel extending upwardly and outwardly substantially from the edge of said recess, an upper and a welt secured to said insole by stitches extending into said channel, and an outsole of harder and less flexible material than the insole secured to said welt, the outsole having secured to its central forward portion only a projection of relatively soft and flexible material complemental to the recess in the insole and fitting within and substantially filling said recess.

2. A shoe comprising an insole having a central recess in the lower surface of its forepart and having central shank and heel portions of full insole thickness, said insole also having an outer marginal shoulder and an inner channel sloping lower upwardly and outwardly from the edge of said recess, an upper having its margin overlasted against said shoulder, a welt seated upon the overlasted margin of the upper, inseam stitches laid in said channel and securing the welt and the upper to the insole, and an outsole secured to the welt and having a central forepart projection fitting within and substantially filling the recess in the insole.

3. A shoe comprising an insole having a central recess in the lower surface of its forepart and having central shank and heel portions of full insole thickness, said recess extending from the lower side of the insole nearly but not quite through the latter, thus producing a relatively thin portion in said forepart, said insole also having an outer marginal shoulder and an inner channel sloping upwardly and outwardly substantially from the edge of said recess, an upper having its margin overlasted against said shoulder, a welt seated upon the overlasted margin of the upper, inseam stitches laid in said channel and securing the welt and the upper to the insole, an outsole secured to the welt and having a central forepart projection fitting within and substantially filling the recess in the insole, and a film of cement interposed between said relatively thin insole portion and said outsole projection to prevent wrinkling of said insole portion.

4. A shoe comprising an insole having a central recess in the lower surface of its forepart and .aving central shank and heel portions of full insole thickness, said recess extending from the side of the insole nearly but not quite through the latter, thus producing a relatively thin portion in said forepa-rt, said insole also having an outer marginal shoulder and an inner channel sloping upwardly and outwardly substantially from the edge of said recess, an upper having its margin overlasted against said shoulder, a Welt seated upon the overlasted margin of the upper, inseam stitches laid in said channel and securing the welt and the upper to the insole, and an outsole having a central forepart projection fitting within and substantially filling said insole recess, said outsole being secured by pyroxylin cement to said welt and by rubber cement to said relatively thin insole portion.

5. A shoe comprising an insole of relatively soft and flexible material having in its forepart a central recess extending from its lower side nearly but not quite through the insole and leaving the central portion of said insole forepart substantially thinner than the marginal portion of said forepart, said marginal portion having an outer shoulder and a deep inner channel extending upwardly and outwardly substantially from the edge of said recess, an upper and a welt secured to said insole by stitches extending into said channel, an outsole of harder and less flexible material than the insole secured by means of cement to said welt and to the surface of the insole substance between said shoulder and said channel, the outsole having secured to its central forward portion only a projection of relatively soft and flexible material complemental to the recess in the insole and fitting within and substantialy filling said recess, and a thin layer of fabric between said outsole projection and the central portion of said insole forepart. 

